The Faglia of Oratino, a Christmas Eve Fire Ritual
On Christmas Eve a 13-meter reed torch is shouldered up to the bell tower and burns all through Christmas night
By Salvatore Giuliano Published Updated
The story
In Oratino they say that "Christmas isn't Christmas without the Faglia". The Faglia is a giant torch made of reeds, around 13 meters long and over a meter across, that is carried on men's shoulders through the village on Christmas Eve and set alight in front of the bell tower of the mother church of Santa Maria Assunta, at the highest point of the old town. Once lit, it burns through the night, and by Christmas morning only ashes are left.
The work starts weeks in advance. The reeds, once taken, often without the owners knowing, from riverbank thickets and hillside vineyards, are gathered, sorted by length and thickness, cleaned and bundled; on December evenings volunteers assemble them and bind them tight with sturdy hoops of manna ash wood. On the afternoon of the 24th at least fifty men lift the Faglia, which weighs 2.5 to 3 tonnes, and carry it from the edge of the village up through the narrow streets, led by the town band. In charge is the capofaglia, who sets the pace and thanks whoever supplied the reeds with the cry "Evviva le canne di…" ("Long live so-and-so's reeds"): once a jibe at the people who had been robbed, today a heartfelt thank-you.
In the churchyard the torch is hoisted upright and fastened to the bell tower with steel cables; in the days of wooden ladders and hemp ropes this was the most dangerous moment. Then comes the parish priest's blessing, with the mayor in attendance, and the lighting from the top of the belfry. There are several theories about where the ritual comes from: an ancient pagan fire cult tied to the winter solstice, a light to guide the Baby Jesus on his way, or simply a signal that the celebrations were about to begin. In recent years local children have started building their own "faglia dei piccoli" to keep the tradition going.
Schedule
- In the afternoon, around fifty bearers shoulder the Faglia at the entrance to the village and carry it, to the sound of the band, through the old streets up to the church of Santa Maria Assunta
- In the churchyard the Faglia is raised upright in front of the bell tower and secured with steel cables
- In the evening, the parish priest's blessing and the lighting of the Faglia from the belfry: the torch burns all through Christmas night
The official schedule for 2026 has not been published yet, so the dates shown are provisional. We will update this page as soon as the calendar is announced.
What to eat
The Faglia falls on Christmas Eve, a meat-free night at the Molise dinner table. The dish nobody skips is baccalà arracanato, salt cod baked under a crust of breadcrumbs, raisins, pine nuts, garlic, parsley and oregano.
On Christmas Day, many families in Molise start lunch with zuppa alla santè, a broth with little cheese meatballs.
Local tips
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Parking
The 2026 schedule and times have not been published yet. In recent years the procession has set off around 3 pm from Via Borgo Loreto, at the entrance to the village, so get there in good time, leave the car before the old town and walk up, and check the Comune di Oratino's notices before you go.
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Payments
The Faglia is free to watch in the village streets, with no ticket needed: bring a little cash for cafés and small purchases.
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Crowds and timing
The streets of the old town are narrow, and the torch moves slowly with many stops along the way. Stay to the side and leave room for the bearers; when it is lit, keep your distance, as the fire sheds sparks and embers.
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What to wear
Oratino sits at almost 800 meters, and Christmas Eve is cold: dress in layers, with a hat, gloves and comfortable shoes for the steep lanes of the old town.
Weather forecast
Data: Open-Meteo
Getting there
The Faglia is lit in the churchyard of Santa Maria Assunta, in the old town of Oratino, a few kilometers from Campobasso. Drive via the regional capital; the nearest train station is Campobasso, about 8 km away.
Things to do this weekend in Molise →
Frequently asked questions
When is the Faglia lit in Oratino in 2026?
On Thursday 24 December 2026, Christmas Eve. The torch is carried through the village from the early afternoon and lit in the evening; the official schedule with times has not been published yet.
How big is the Faglia?
It is a reed torch about 13 meters long and over a meter in diameter, weighing 2.5 to 3 tonnes: it takes at least fifty men to carry it.
Where is the Faglia lit?
In front of the bell tower of the church of Santa Maria Assunta, at the highest point of Oratino's old town. The torch is fastened to the tower and lit from the belfry after the parish priest's blessing.
Do you need a ticket to watch the Faglia?
No, the procession and the lighting are free to watch in the village streets.
